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The journey shown here involves sailing to Denmark aboard DFDS Seaways' cruise ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg, then taking trains on to Stockholm for the overnight Silja Line or Viking Line cruise ferry to Finland.  The DFDS ferry sails 3 or 4 times a week.  It's more leisurely than the Eurostar-based option via Brussels described above, although takes no more time, at least in the outward direction.

London ► Helsinki

• Day 1, travel from London to Harwich by train, leaving London Liverpool Street at 14:18 and arriving Harwich 1 hour 25 minutes later.  Harwich International station is right next to the ferry terminal.  The train runs hourly, but this departure gives plenty of time to catch the ferry.  Please double-check train times at www.nationalrail.co.uk.

• Day 1, sail from Harwich to Esbjerg in Denmark aboard DFDS Seaways 'Dana Sirena'.  The Dana Sirena sails from Harwich every Wednesday, Friday & Sunday at 18:00 (increased to every second day in June, July & August ), arriving in Esbjerg at 13:00 next day (day 2).  www.dfds.co.uk will confirm sailing dates.  The Dana Sirena is a modern and well-run ship, with comfortable cabins, two restaurants, a bar, coffee shop and lounges, see the photos below.  On arrival at Esbjerg, take a taxi or bus or simply walk to the railway station.  Bus number 5 runs from the ferry terminal to the station every 20 minutes, bus fare 15 Kr adult 8 Kr child.

  If you've a backpack or light luggage, you can easily walk from the ferry terminal to  the pedestrianised town centre in about 10-15 minutes, from where it's another 5-10 minutes walk to the station.  The station is a historic red-brick building, though not very distinctively marked.

• Day 2 afternoon, travel from Esbjerg to Copenhagen by modern InterCity train, leaving Esbjerg town station at 15:42 and arriving in Copenhagen at 18:53.  The journey is about 175 miles, right across Denmark in air-conditioned comfort.  You can check times for your date of travel at http://bahn.hafas.de.

• Day 2 evening, travel from Copenhagen to Stockholm overnight, leaving Copenhagen by frequent local train at 21:23 arriving Malmö at 21:58 (these Copenhagen-Malmö local trains run every 20 minutes).  A sleeper train leaves Malmö at 23:08 arriving Stockholm at 06:55 next morning (day 3).  This sleeper train runs daily except Saturday nights, and has seats, couchettes (6 bunk) and sleepers (1 & 2 bed rooms with washbasin).  Alternatively, spend the night in Copenhagen and head for Stockholm the next day.  Regular high speed tilting 'X2000' trains link Copenhagen with Stockholm, check train times at http://bahn.hafas.de.

• Day 3:  Enjoy the best part of a day free in Stockholm.  Late in the afternoon, transfer to the Silja Line terminal.  The terminal is about 2.5km from the city centre, 500m from Gärdet metro station.  A shuttle bus links the Cityterminal (the bus terminal next to the central railway station) with the Silja terminal.  Silja Line's ferries sail daily at 17:00 arriving in Helsinki at about 09:30 next morning (day 4 from London).  It's a very scenic voyage, as the liner sails out of Stockholm past all the islands - see video.  Map of Helsinki showing Silja terminal.

On board DFDS Seaways "Dana Sirena" from the UK to Esbjerg...

The Dana Sirena is a modern and well-run ship, built in 2002.  All passengers travel in cabins, and all cabins have a private shower & toilet.  Facilities on board include the 7 Seas buffet restaurant, the Blue Riband à la carte restaurant, Café Lighthouse (with WiFi access for laptops), Columbus Lounge, and shop. The ship is child-friendly, with children's play area, child restraints for cabin berths available from reception, and highchairs available in all restaurants and lounges.  3D virtual tour of the Dana Sirena's cabins, lounges, bars and restaurants.  Cabins come in three classes:

• Seaways class: 1-6 berths with private shower and toilet;

• Sirena class: 1 or 2 berth with private shower and toilet, TV (BBC World, BBC Prime), complimentary minibar, breakfast included;

• Commodore Deluxe: Hotel-style rooms with double bed or two single beds, TV (BBC Prime, BBC World), small sitting area, private shower and toilet.  Commodore cabins are on their own deck with exclusive access to the Commodore Lounge which has sea views, complimentary tea, coffee, snacks, beer and (in the evening) free wine and spirits, PC with internet access and WiFi access if you have your own laptop.  Commodore Deluxe is like travelling to Scandinavia aboard a floating hotel, highly recommended..!

Crossing the North Sea aboard the Dana Sirena...		Commodore class cabin with double bed.		Sirena class cabin.

On board the Danish InterCity train from Esbjerg to Copenhagen...

All aboard for Copenhagen..!		Inside the air-conditioned IC3 train.

X2000 daytime trains from Copenhagen to Stockholm...

With Silja Line from Stockholm to Helsinki...

The Silja Line Stockholm-Helsinki cruise ferries are more like floating cities than ferries, with luxurious cabins, nightclubs, bars, restaurants, cafés, shopping centres & cinemas.

Silja Line's 'Silja Serenade' (above left) and 'Silja Symphony' (above right) on the  Helsinki route, are more like cruise liners than ferries.  Pictures courtesy of Silja Line. The crossing is very scenic as the ship sails out of Stockholm past all the islands - see this short video of a Helsinki-Stockholm crossing with Silja Line...

Helsinki ► London

• Day 1, sail on the luxurious Silja Line cruise ferry from Helsinki at 17:00 arriving in Stockholm at about 09:30 next morning.  Departures are daily, and a range of cabins is available.  Transfer by bus or metro to Stockholm central station.  Enjoy day 2 free in Stockholm.

• Day 2, travel from Stockholm to Copenhagen overnight, leaving Stockholm at 22:35 by sleeper train and arriving Malmö at 06:42 next morning.  This sleeper runs daily except Saturday nights.  A connecting local train leaves Malmö every 20 minutes, with one at 07:02 arriving Copenhagen at 07:37.  The sleeper train has seats, couchettes (6 bunk) and sleepers (1 & 2 bed rooms).  Alternatively, on Mondays-Saturdays there is a high speed X2000 train leaving Stockholm at 06:20 and arriving Copenhagen at 11:33, allowing you to spend the night in Stockholm and travel next day (day 3) to make a same-day connection to Esbjerg for the ferry to England.  Check times and days of running at http://bahn.hafas.de.

• Day 3, travel from Copenhagen to Esbjerg by modern air-conditioned InterCity train, leaving Copenhagen at 12:30 and arriving Esbjerg at 15:24.  You can check times at http://bahn.hafas.de.  Take a bus or taxi or simply walk (25 minutes) to the DFDS ferry terminal.  Bus number 5 runs from the station to the port every 20 minutes.

• Day 3 evening, sail from Esbjerg to Harwich aboard DFDS cruise ferry 'Dana Sirena', leaving Esbjerg ferry terminal at 19:00 on Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays, arriving Harwich at 11:30 next day (sailings are increased to every second day in June, July & August).  See www.dfds.co.uk to confirm sailing dates.  3D virtual tour of the Dana Sirena's cabins, lounges, bars and restaurants.

• Day 4, travel from Harwich to London by train, leaving Harwich at 13:06 and arriving London Liverpool Street at 14:33.  The train service runs hourly, you can check times at www.nationalrail.co.uk.

Fares

• London to Harwich by train costs £24 return or £21.50 one-way.  Advance reservation isn't necessary, just buy tickets at the station on the day of travel.  Alternatively, if you book with DFDS Seaways by phone, they can sell you a London-Harwich train ticket with your ferry ticket for a special price of £10 one-way or £20 return.

• Harwich to Esbjerg by ferry starts at around £158 return for two people sharing a 2-bed cabin with private toilet and shower (= £79 each) or £147 return for one person with sole use of a cabin.  To check sailing dates, times and fares for different types of cabin, visit www.dfds.co.uk.  DFDS Seaways now has an airline-style pricing system so prices vary, book early and avoid peak times to get the cheapest fares.  Children under 16 travel at reduced fare.  Unfortunately, DFDS won't now let solo passengers share cabins, the whole cabin must be booked.

• Esbjerg to Copenhagen by train costs 297 Kr (£27) one way, 594 Kr (£54) return for adults, or 149 Kr (£14) each way for children and seniors over 65.  Advance reservation is possible but not necessary, and tickets can be bought at the station on the day at those prices.  Alternatively, DFDS can sell you a train ticket with your ferry ticket, at the same prices.

• Copenhagen to Stockholm by sleeper train costs SEK 760 (£56) one-way or SEK 1520 (£112) return per person travelling in 6-bunk couchettes, or SEK 1170 (£87) one-way, SEK 2340 (£174) return per person travelling in a 2-bed sleeper, when booked through SwedenBooking.com.

• Stockholm to Helsinki:  Silja Line fares can be checked online at www.silja.com, Viking Line fares at www.vikingline.fi.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1:  Buy your Harwich-Esbjerg ferry tickets online at www.dfds.co.uk (no booking fee) or by calling DFDS Seaways on 0870 5 333 000 (£10 booking fee for phone bookings).  Phone lines are open 08:30-20:00 Mondays-Fridays, 08:30-17:00 Saturdays, 10:00-16:00 Sundays.  If you book by phone, you can also buy your Silja Line ferry ticket from DFDS.

• You can buy your London-Harwich & Esbjerg-Copenhagen train tickets at the station on the day of travel.  No reservation is necessary, and there's no price advantage in buying tickets in advance.  But if you want to save queuing at the ticket office, you can buy the London-Harwich ticket online at www.nationalrail.co.uk and the Esbjerg-Copenhagen ticket (with seat reservation) at www.dsb.dk, the Danish Railways website.  This is in Danish, but it's not difficult to work out how to use it if you're familiar with the way such booking systems work.  You pay by credit card then print out your own ticket.  remember that Copenhagen in Danish is 'Kobenhavn'.  Alternatively, if you book by phone, DFDS can add both UK and Esbjerg-Copenhagen tickets to your ferry fare, including making a seat reservation on the Esbjerg-Copenhagen train.  Ask DFDS about special cheap train fares from other UK stations to Harwich, too. 

• Step 2:  Buy the Malmö-Stockholm sleeper tickets online at www.bokatag.se.  You buy online and pick up your tickets from the vending machines at Malmö station.  Bookings open 90 days before departure.  Look for the 'just-nu' special offer fares, 'just-nu' is the name for Swedish Railways non-refundable advance-purchase cheap deals.  A ticket for the connecting Copenhagen-Malmö local train can easily be bought at the ticket office for a few krone, when you get to Copenhagen.  Alternatively, you can buy Malmö-Stockholm tickets by email with www.swedenbooking.com, email info@swedenbooking.com or call + 46 498 203380.  Tickets can be posted to UK addresses, or tickets can be picked up by entering your booking reference into the automatic machines at stations in Sweden, including at Malmö and Stockholm stations.  The fares shown above include Swedenbooking's 10% surcharge over Swedish Railways' prices, and they also charge an SEK 100 (£7) booking fee.

• Step 3:  Silja Line tickets can be bought online at www.silja.com or through their UK agents, DFDS Seaways, on 0870 5 333 000.  Viking Line can be booked online at either the Seat61 Ferry Shop or www.vikingline.fi or by phone though its UK agent, Emagine Ltd, on 01942 262662.

The direct overnight train called the "Tolstoi" is easily the best way to travel from Helsinki to Moscow.  It's safe, cheap, civilised and comfortable.  The train has recently (2006) been completely refurbished, there are sleepers, a restaurant and even deluxe sleeper with private shower, and border controls have been streamlined.

Helsinki ► Moscow				Moscow ► Helsinki
The "Tolstoi"		Daily		The "Tolstoi"		Daily
Helsinki	depart	18:27		Moscow (Octyabrskaya)	depart	22:50
Moscow (Octyabrskaya)	arrive	08:25		Helsinki	arrive	11:33

On board the Helsinki-Moscow "Tolstoi": 

• 1st class sleepers with 2-berth compartments (if you are travelling solo you can book one bed in a 2-bed compartment and share )

• 2nd class sleepers with 4-berth compartments (each berth is sold separately)

• a newly-refurbished bar-restaurant car.  The restaurant accepts Euros, US Dollars and Rubles, but not credit cards.

• one deluxe business class sleeping-car with four 2-bed compartments, each with private shower, toilet and DVD entertainment.  Only whole compartments are sold, you cannot book one berth in a 2-berth deluxe sleeper.

• The coaches on this train were renewed in 2006, and it's a safe, affordable and very comfortable way to travel.  Customs and passport formalities are carried out on board the train, no need to get off at the frontier.  The Russian border station is Vyborg.

• See the brochure on the Finnish Railways website which shows photographs and seating/sleeping berth layouts of each type of seat/sleeper and restaurant car on each of the Helsinki-Russia trains.

Fares: 

• Helsinki to Moscow costs about 97 euros (£67) one-way per person in 2nd class (4-berth sleepers) or 144 euros (£100) in 1st class (2-berth sleepers).

• Travel in a deluxe business class sleeper with private toilet & shower costs 203 euros £140) per person for two people or 335 euros for sole occupancy.

• A return is twice the one-way fare.

• Children aged 6 to 16 (inclusive) travel at half fare.  Children under 6 go free.

• Anyone over 60 gets a 30% reduction.  A passport must be shown on the train. 

• You can check these fares at www.vr.fi (English button top right, look for 'trains to Russia')

How to buy tickets: 

You can buy Helsinki-Moscow tickets at the station reservations office (the office at Helsinki is open 08:30-16:30 Monday-Friday, closed Saturday & Sunday), or by email with Finnish Railways on internationaltickets@vr.fi (if this doesn't work try international.tickets@vr.fi) or by phone calling Finnish Railways international reservations on +358 9 2319 2902.

The two daily direct trains from Helsinki to St Petersburg are easily the best way to do this journey.  One is Finnish, the other Russian, both are very comfortable.

Helsinki ► St Petersburg					St Petersburg ► Helsinki
Daily:		Sibelius	Repin		Daily:		Repin	Sibelius
Helsinki	depart	07:27	15:27		St Petersburg (Finlandski)	depart	08:09	16:32
St Petersburg (Finlandski)	arrive	13:33	21:56		Helsinki	arrive	12:33	20:48

 Sibelius = Finnish rolling stock, air-conditioned, completely refurbished in 2006.  1st & 2nd class, restaurant car.  The restaurant car accepts Euros, USD, Rubles and all major credit cards.

Repin = Russian rolling stock.  Spalny vagon (2-seat compartments) and kupé class (6-seat compartments), restaurant car. The fare includes complimentary snack & soft drink.  The restaurant car accepts Euros, USD, Rubles but not credit cards.

See the brochure on the Finnish Railways website which shows photographs and seating/sleeping berth layouts of each type of seat/sleeper and restaurant car on each of the Helsinki-Russia trains.  The Russian border station is Vyborg.

Which station in St Petersburg?  From September 2006, these trains are once again using St Petersburg Finlandski station, not the new Ladozhki station which they used for a while.

Fares:

• Helsinki to St Petersburg costs 51 euros one-way in 2nd class, 81 euros in 1st class.

• Children aged 6 to 16 (inclusive) travel at half fare.  Children under 6 go free.

• Anyone over 60 gets a 30% reduction.  A passport must be shown on the train. 

• You can check these fares at www.vr.fi (English button top right, look for 'trains to Russia')

How to buy tickets: 

You can buy Helsinki-St Petersburg tickets at the station reservations office (the office at Helsinki is open 08:30-16:30 Monday-Friday, closed Saturday & Sunday), or by email with Finnish Railways on internationaltickets@vr.fi (if this doesn't work try international.tickets@vr.fi) or by phone calling Finnish Railways international reservations on +358 9 2319 2902.

The Thomas Cook European timetable has train & ferry times for every country in Europe, plus currency & climate information.  Published since 1873 and costing £13.50, it's essential for any serious traveller and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  More information on what the Thomas Cook Timetable contains.  You can buy the latest monthly edition online at www.thomascooktimetables.com with worldwide delivery, or buy it in person from any UK branch of Thomas Cook (ask at the bureau de change).  Or buy the independent traveller's edition from Amazon.co.uk:  Winter 2007/8 edition (December 2007 to June 2008) or Summer 2008 edition (June to December 2008). 

The Thomas Cook Rail Map of Europe is the best and most comprehensive map of train routes right across Europe, from Portugal in the west to Istanbul, Moscow & Ukraine in the east, from Finland in the north to Sicily & Crete in the south.  High speed & scenic routes are highlighted.  Highly recommended!  Buy online at www.amazon.co.uk (worldwide delivery).  See an extract from the map.

You should take a good guidebook.  For the independent traveller, I think this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  I personally prefer the layout of the Lonely Planet, but others prefer the Rough Guide.  Both guidebooks provide the same excellent level of practical information and historical background.  You won't regret buying one..!

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk...

Or buy direct at the Lonely Planet website, shipping worldwide.

Compare quotes from both Direct Line & Columbus...

Travel insurance..

Travel insurance is a boring subject, but it's a real necessity, so make sure you budget for it.  Make sure you get adequate cover - for example, at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover, from a reliable insurer.  Remember that an annual multi-trip policy is often cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just two or three trips a year.  Here are some suggested insurers to try.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy after clicking these links.

  If you live in the UK, get quotes from Direct Line (whom I've used myself) and Columbus Direct.